In September 2013 I hopped across the North Sea for a 4-day cycling trip to the Netherlands. I had heard that NL is where cyclists can live the dream, and that it is rather flat, so I decided to see for myself. I had 'done' Amsterdam on a city break, so didn't particularly wish to go there. However, the lesser cities to the south seem QI. Also, I have an interest in military history, and had long harboured an ambition to visit the WW2 battlefield at Arnhem.
Cycling in the Netherlands
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| Knooppunt signboard |
I researched NL cycling and pretty soon came upon a very useful website of the organisation Nederland Fietsland which will tell you most of what you need to know about cycle tourism in that fair country. In particular their on-line mapping of the cycle network is excellent and allowed me to plot out my intended routes in great detail and download GPS files for my Satmap GPS, and also print out turn by turn directions. (Unfortunately, they don't seem to have a mapping app for smart phones.)
The network comprises the 'junction network' where all the key junctions ('knooppunt', or KP) are numbered. It is then relatively easy (compared to the UK) to follow the signs from junction to junction to pick out your preferred route. Layered on top of this are a number of long distance 'LF' routes which as their name suggests are ideal for long distance touring, although they might not take the most scenic route. I found navigating the network very easy. That said, don't get complacent because especially in built up areas, not every road junction is signed, and I did get lost a couple of times: but you will almost certainly soon come across direction signs to put you right.
Another useful resource is the book 'Cycling in the Netherlands' by Eric van der Horst.. This describes a circular route around the country, plus some extensions. In the end I didn't use his routes, but did find the background information and advice very useful.
Paper maps
Finally, maps. I bought the 1:50,000 ANWB maps (sheet 14, Zuid Holland, and sheet 15, Groene Hart) Stanfords' on-line map shop. These proved very useful, and include the cycle network with all the numbered junctions.
The Plan
To get to NL, I only considered one option: ferry from Harwich to the Hook of Holland. Going overnight would land me at the Hook early in the morning, ready for a full day's ride. My plan A was to go up the coast on the LF1 Noordzeeroute to Duindoorp, then inland to The Hague and Delft, then cross country to Rotterdam for my first night. Second day: through the heritage windmills at Kinderdijk and across the polders to Utrecht. Utrecht is a major rail hub, so on Day 3 I would cheat and take my bike on the train to Arnhem for my battlefield tour, returning to Utrecht for the night. Day 4 I would somehow get back from Utrecht to the Hook of Holland for the ferry home.
Accommodation
For accommodation, I considered the network of cheap B&Bs run by the Vrienden op de Fiets. (Friends of the Bicycle). These are folk who provide a room in their home for cyclists at a very cheap rate. I did join up for a very reasonable 8 euros (though this incurred a bank transfer fee of £10!) But on further investigation, it seemed this might be a bit too spartan for me.
Next I looked at the Netherlands B&B website . These are good quality B&Bs at reasonable prices. And the website allows you to select those which have secure cycle storage. I found a place for my two nights in Utrecht through this site.
There seemed to be no B&Bs available in Rotterdam, so I booked a mid price hotel for my first night through Expedia.
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